Loading Jade | Daily Makeup Look [And General Makeup Advice]
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Daily Makeup Look [And General Makeup Advice]

Classic, elegant, flawless.

The natural makeup look is something that I am constantly using when I go out and do makeup on shoots. A woman’s natural beauty is something that is so classic and elegant. It elicits a feeling of comfort in one’s own skin as you connect with the model in her more natural state. It is the most essential look to have in your arsenal because it is so often used in not only the shoot world but often as a daily makeup application. The purpose of the natural look is not to add anything to the natural features but to bring them out. There is no colour involved besides what is already found upon the face.

 

BRIEF SUMMARY OF THE MAKEUP APPLICATION:

We start with foundation which is only applied to cover spots, discoloration or imperfections to create a flawless skin. A light brown eyeshadow is applied to the eyes with a nude liner in the waterline to define them but still with a natural look. The brows are filled in, if necessary, with hairlike strokes using a smudge-proof brow gel or just brushed out with a brow mascara if time is short or if the brows are already full. A light contour is added to emphasize the cheekbones, with a light blush to add colour to the cheeks. Highlight can be added for a glow. This is one thing we never hold back on so be sure to drown yourself in shine. A nude colour is added to the lips – this can be matte or dewy. I recommend dewy to give naturally juicy lips. I always add mascara last because I feel other products can fall into the lashes making it optimal to do the mascara afterwards. Lashes are entirely too much for a natural look so we leave those out completely. That leaves us with our flawless face!

Having applied a natural look to many different people I have come across many different techniques or deviations from the norm that may be a perfect addition to your application depending on your tastes. I also have some products that I constantly find myself reaching for whether I’m doing my own makeup or any other model’s makeup and so will be sharing these favourites as I elaborate on each specific step of the process.

I’d like to start off by saying that before you run out and purchase any makeup products it is important to know your skin type and how these products affect your skin. Finding these things out can be the difference between a good makeup application and a bad one. If your makeup has been looking weird – these simple factors may be what makes the difference. If you have oily skin, for example, and you use a product that is extremely hydrating, your makeup WILL just melt off your face or separate and feel heavy within a short period of time. If you have dry skin and you use a drying product your makeup won’t melt off your face, it will FLAKE. Nobody wants anything but a smooth skin texture, so do yourself a favour and figure out your skin type and research what your products do with the skin before you buy them!

SKIN PREP:

Before we start applying any makeup to the face it is first important to prep our canvas that is the skin. Dirt or makeup not cleansed off the skin can interfere with your application and make it look muddy or uneven. It could also make products separate or flake off the face. Without hydrating the skin, the foundation might flake anyway or if the skin is very oily the foundation will just melt off.

Therefore it is very important to cleanse, tone and moisturise before moving on to the priming step. Many of us also have very dry lips. Since I will be using a matte lipstick in this look it is important to exfoliate the lips for which I use Lush’s lip scrub. They have many different flavours. I then follow that up with lanolin which is the best way to moisturise the lips and keep them from drying out or cracking.

STEP 0: PRIMER

You’re obviously wondering, why is primer step 0? Why not step 1? Well despite popular belief, what makeup companies want you to think and what Youtube has probably taught you, you only really need primer if your skin demands it. The primer you want to use also depends on your skin type so don’t just go out and buy the most popular one! *cough* porefessional *cough* So without further ado I shall explain why and when you need to wear primer.

If you have enlarged pores I would recommend using a primer. Applying foundation over enlarged pores can result in a pocky texture. Using a primer fills in the gaps and creates a smooth texture. Primer can also improve the look of rough, uneven skin. Primer will not, however, do much for acne.

Depending on your skin type a primer might help prevent your foundation from separating or flaking. A drying primer like Benefit’s porefessional is fantastic to prolong the wear of the foundation on oily skin. It also smooths out any textures fantastically. However, this would only serve to cause foundation to flake on people with dry skin. A primer is not necessary for this purpose, however, if you hydrate the skin effectively. I have not personally found a primer that is hydrating for dry skin that I really love. If you have one that you love, let me know in the comment section.

Some primers also have colour corrective properties. This would help if you have any redness or red spots or any other discolouration that you would like to improve depending on the primer.

If you have smooth, even-coloured skin a primer might not be necessary for you. If you’re not seeing any results with your primer you are most likely just adding things onto your face unecessarily. The less makeup the better as the more you add the more it will affect your skin. Our goal is to have as healthy skin as possible so as not to need primers or foundations.

For my application I used Benefit’s Porefessional Primer in the center of my face where I have rough texture, open pores and oily skin. I applied and worked it in with my fingers.

STEP 1: ILLUMINATOR

This may be an odd deviation for some. I find using a liquid illuminator beneath foundation can give a stunning dewy glow that looks natural and appealing. Liquid illuminator can also be used after foundation to intensify highlight areas. I tend to apply it with my fingers which gives the most natural look. Alternatively, you can get a stunning dewy glow from using skincare products or oil that is extremely hydrating. However, care must be taken when doing so as it can reduce the wear time of your foundation.

I use Inglot’s Face and Body Illuminator in the pink shade – I think the number is 63.

STEP 2: FOUNDATION

Despite popular belief (again) it is not necessary to plaster one’s face with makeup. You can achieve a certain look by doing so but it is not practical for daily makeup and is definitely not a natural look. If the skin is very rough in texture or very pigmented or discoloured, a full coverage foundation might be necessary to achieve an even-toned, smoother skin. However, if you do not have many problems with your skin, a light or medium coverage may be enough to ensure even colour. This can be applied all over the face or just to spot conceal any differences in skin colour. It is important, especially when spot concealing, to colour correct the tones beneath the foundation. Redness is very common for which I can recommend a green-tinted primer. If you just have a spot or two of redness, you can use any green colour corrector to spot conceal it. For discolouration on darker skins, orange is often used to colour correct. Foundation is applied over the colour correction. I would recommend applying foundation with a flat brush or your fingers and working it in with a fluffy brush. If you are just spot concealing, working the colour in with your fingers will be optimal.

On myself, I used Bobbi Brown’s stick foundation in the shade alabaster. I previously wore the shade porcelain (shade 0) as I was told it was the lightest but upon visiting another branch and discovering porcelain was too orange on me, I discovered alabaster which is closer to my skin tone. Alabaster is still ever so slightly too dark for me but I am without options. I also find that the skin on my face/neck/chest is darker than the rest of my body so from my natural tone alabaster is a most uneven fit.

STEP 3: POWDER

We apply powder to areas of the face where makeup creases, or where the skin becomes very oily and therefore shiny. We almost always have to conceal dark under eye circles and this is the first place that makeup will start creasing therefore it is important to make sure to set the foundation with a powder. You could bake the foundation which will prevent it from creasing throughout the entire day. Other areas that tend to become oily or crease are around the mouth by the smile lines, the nose creases (it is very important to make sure to work foundation into the skin around these areas) and on the forehead as it is never becoming to have a shiny forehead.

On myself, I used Nyx’s Stay Matte But Not Flat Powder on the areas previously mentioned. Throughout the day I would powder again depending on whether or not I become shiny.

STEP 3, 4, 5:  CONTOUR, BLUSH, EYESHADOW

For the sake of simplicity and keeping this daily or natural look quick and easy it is beneficial to use one palette for the contour, blush and eyes. I use my Ben Nye palette which I almost always use when on set or when doing my own makeup.

The colour cork is so close to Benefit’s Hoola Bronzer and makes for a good warm-toned contour. I apply this using an angled brush and focus on blending it so that there are no harsh lines present on the face.

For blush, I use the red-brown shade. Normally, I would use a lighter pink or peachy shade but this colour still looks very natural and adds a nice warmth to the cheeks. If applied heavily it can really add dramatic affect but for this application I keep it light and apply it with the biggest fluffy brush in my kit. Sweeping this brush back and forth creates a quick and easy, natural looking blend.

On eyes, I prime the lid with the vanilla shade just to absorb any oils that are present on the skin. I then go in with a blend of cork and vanilla on the lid with cork in my crease. This creates sufficient dimension on my light skin tone but I can recommend to use some darker brown shades for those that are more tanned than I.

For the ease of use of having everything in one palette but to have all of the shades you want I would recommend using Inglot’s flexi palette with their freedom system eyeshadows, blushes and sculpting powders. The system is so versatile – you can have what is exactly perfect for you all together in one palette.

STEP 6: EYELINER

Before we move away from the eyes, we brighten by adding a nude colour to the waterline. When applying liner to the waterline I can recommend using a cotton pad to pull the skin so as not to smudge the foundation underneath. My absolute favourite nude pencil to use is Kryolan’s Contour Pencil 925 as it is such a beautiful flattering colour on almost everyone. Make sure to sharpen your pencil so as not to poke yourself with the jagged edges of the pencil but not too sharp so that it is unpleasant to apply. The Kryolan pencil is soft and creamy and lasts incredibly long.

STEP 7: BROWS

Normally we would do the brows before the eyeshadow. This is because the brows often give an indication of where to apply your eyeshadow as the eyes are framed. However, for this quick look I usually do not define my brows but just use a brow mascara. It was also easier to do eyeshadow before as everything was together in one palette. If you want to define your brows I would suggest using Inglot’s smudge-proof brow gel applied in hairlike strokes with a 42T brush. No other brow product or brush has given me a look as natural. You can also use powders to create a full fluffy look – I suggest using a brown closest to your hair colour and mixing it with a greyish taupe – this reduces the warmth of the colour and gives the most natural effect.

My favourite brow mascara to use is definitely the Maybelline brow drama which I use in the shade dark brown.

STEP 8: HIGHLIGHTER

Highlighter is by far the most exciting part of any makeup application! Whenever I see a new highlighter launch I feel like a child in a candy shop. I love this highlighter from Bobbi Brown – it’s such a lovely pink glow and can work beautifully for any natural makeup application or you can lay it on for a more intense glow.

We generally highlight the points of the face that naturally catch the light so as to accentuate these features and intensify the glow from the light when it hits the highlighter. These high points are generally the cheekbones, nose tip and bridge, cupid’s bow and perhaps the chin as well depending on how you like your look. I generally advise against highlighting the forehead as in most situations it can look very unbecoming.

STEP 9: MASCARA

Mascara is incredibly important to bring out the eyes and give them definition. Different mascaras give different lash looks – some give volume, some give length, some help curl and others just plain don’t work.

My absolute favourite to use so far is the Rimmel Wake Me Up mascara pictured here. It gives me amazing volume and length that I haven’t yet found with another mascara. Rimmel has been around for a long time and they really do know what they are doing when it comes to mascara.

I apply mascara by first using the comb to brush down the top lashes to coat the back and tips of the lashes. I then wiggle the brush upwards through the lashes moving them to point inwards on the inside of the eye, upwards on the middle of the eye and outwards on the outside. I then do the same with the bottom lashes and this gives the defined, open eye look.

STEP 10: LIPS

During skin prep we exfoliated our lips and applied lanolin to moisturise. By the time we get to this step the lanolin would have soaked into the lips giving them a soft texture. This is now the perfect canvas to apply our lipstick onto.

We always apply a lip liner as a base for the lipstick to hold onto and to prevent the lipstick from bleeding. For this application we are using a nude lipstick so I used the same Kryolan Contour Pencil 925 that we used in our waterline.

Despite what people think, a makeup pencil is a makeup pencil. It says it’s for contour but it can be used for contour, eyeliner, lipliner and I’m sure you could even experiment with it as a cream eyeshadow. Experiment with your products and see just how many ways they can work for you. Do not limit yourself to only one application and buy a separate nude pencilyo for the lips – it’s not necessary.

We apply lip liner by first outlining the lips with our lip pencil and then filling in the rest of the lips inside the outline. This gives the longest wear for your lipstick. You could even use a lip primer before your lip liner to maximize wear time.

Once the lip liner is in place we apply our long wear liquid lipstick on top. I used Inglot’s HD lip tint in 21 which is a matte pink-nude lipstick. For long wear I always recommend a matte lipstick as glossy or dewy lipsticks do not stay on nearly as long as matte lipsticks do. If you want a dewy finish simply apply a clear gloss on top and you’ll have your long wear with juicy lips!

Inglot’s HD lip tint is by far the best quality long wear lipstick that I have tried.  It feels quite dry but it is still nourishing on the lips as it has skincare ingredients in it. It stays on by far the longest compared to any other long wear liquid lipstick. It is quite pricey at R499 but it is endlessly worth it. L.A. Girls’ long wear is a cheap alternative but be ready for DRY lips like you have never had before. But at R50 I would deal with the dry lips. Smashbox’s long wear is also very good – it’s a more comfortable wear but you will need to reapply as it does not wear as long.

STEP 11: SET AND FORGET

Last but not least we set everything in place using our setting spray. This also helps prolong the wear of your makeup. Spray about 20cm away to wet the entire face. Follow up immediately after spraying by fanning it to dry. This is the most important aspect of setting spray – you’re just wetting your face for nothing if you do not fan it.

While applying the setting spray you should feel a tightening effect on the face – this is how you know your setting spray is actually setting the makeup. You find this with Skindinavia – one of the best setting sprays on the market. An alternative to Skindinavia is Urban Decay’s All Nighter setting spray as it is the exact same formula. I also get the tightening effect with Inglot’s setting spray which is slightly cheaper. My makeup mentor also advocates Blue Marble like it’s made from Jesus’s blood but I haven’t tried it for myself yet.

Now that you’ve set your makeup that’s the end of the makeup application and you can go out into the world feeling fire!

This picture was incredibly hard to take by the way. I literally put the tripod on top of an ottoman, stuck my foot out in front of the camera to focus it, put the timer on and attempted to crawl in front of the camera and pose before the timer went off. I think I look like a crawling lizard and you can see my lovely sunburn patch – it adds a nice touch, doesn’t it? Now that I’ve given you this in depth makeup tutorial you can take your best lizard pics too.

Anyway, I hope you enjoyed my advice. It comes cheap so if you feel like it you can support this blog via KO-FI! Seriously though, I’m perpetually broke and need money for games and pizza.

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Good luck on your makeup journey!

~Jade

 

 

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